alan_smith
Posts: 1138
Joined: 1/11/2007
From: Ruston, Louisiana
Status: offline
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People are always asking how to make an exhaust snorkel for the HMF Utility exhaust pipe. This is the best way I have found to make a removable snorkel for the pipe. Using this way, you can swap between the snorkel and the stock tip by simply removing the three stock bolts. On the end of your HMF exhaust pipe are two end caps. The first is the end cap that bolts on with three bolts and has a tip pointing the exhaust down. The other larger end cap is held on by three rivets. You will need to do something with both of these so you need to be familiar with what I’m talking about before you do anything else. The first part of building the snorkel deals with the bolt on end cap. You will build a different end cap that is a snorkel that can be switched out with the stock end cap with just three bolts. To start, you need to go to a local hardware store or something similar. You need to purchase a washer that has an inside diameter (ID) of 2" and an outside diameter (OD) of 3.5". You need to take the stock end cap off of your HMF and make a mark on the washer where the three bolt holes will go. If you have access to a drill press, you will need to drill out the three holes into the washer. If not, you need to find someone that has a drill press or that can drill the holes for you. The second part of building the snorkel involves you taking the washer that you have drilled holes in to a muffler shop. You also have to take your fourwheeler to the muffler shop to make sure that the snorkel will be straight up and down when bolted onto the fourwheeler. Once you get it to the muffler shop, they will need to use 2" diameter pipe. The pipe needs to come out far enough to clear the back rack and then bent straight up from the ground. The HMF actually sits at an angle, so it will not be an exact 90-degree turn to go straight up (this is one reason why you need to be able to hold it onto the end of your HMF). Once you decide how tall you want it to be you need to bend the tip away from the bike at a 45-degree angle. The last part of getting the pipe ready to weld is to cut the tip of pipe you just bent so that it is straight up and down. This keeps rain from funneling in the end of the snorkel. The last part of building the snorkel is welding the pipe that you have bent to the washer that you have prepared in the first step. You need to bolt the washer onto the end of the HMF. You will use the original three bolts that held the end cap onto the HMF. Once you have it bolted on, you will need to hold it straight up and down while someone tack welds the pipe to the washer. Once it is tack welded on, you will need to weld a bead around the whole pipe where it meets the washer. You now have a removable snorkel. The weight of the snorkel on the HMF is too much for the riveted-on end cap to handle. The three rivets will not hold the weight of the snorkel. After two rides the end cap on mine started rattling so I knew something had to be done. You have two options with this; some even use both. The first option is to have a support of some sort. This would need to connect to your rack and support your snorkel. I have never done this because of the way it would look, but it’s an option and a lot of people do it. Your second option is to weld the larger end cap on. The HMF pipe is made of aluminum so it is important that you have someone that can weld aluminum do this. You can run a bead all the way around the HMF and then use an aluminum grinder to make smooth it out. With the right amount of grinding, filing, etc. you can make it look completely flush with the rest of the pipe. Next I will list a few optional things with the HMF that deal with the risk of water getting into the snorkel. The heat from the pipe will warp and bend the washer the first few times that you ride with it. This can be bent back into place the first few times with just a good set of pliers, but it raises a problem that could be encountered with a small amount of water getting into the pipe. With the pressure coming out of the exhaust it shouldn’t be an issue, but I have a few solutions to eliminate any problems. I use both of these to help make it even more water proof. The first tip is to make another washer identical to the one you welded the pipe onto. You just need to drill the same bolt pattern into it. It will stay separate from the snorkel and can be used as a spacer as well as an extra water shield. When you go to bolt on the snorkel you can bolt on the extra waster with it. The second tip is to use some high-temp silicon (aka gasket maker). This lets the snorkel still be removable, but will seal any holes that water could possibly leak into. You need to make sure that it is made for high temperatures because the exhaust gets extremely hot. When run for an extended period of time, the exhaust snorkel will get extremely hot. You need to take this into consideration when it comes to riding a passenger! The last tip deals with the situation IF water was to get into the snorkel. There is not enough pressure to push water up and out of the snorkel if water was to get in. There is a simple way to make a drain for a snorkel. First you need to drill a hole in the bottom of the snorkel. Next, just weld a nut onto the snorkel with the hole you just drilled in the center. You can now insert a bolt into the washer to close it up. If you get water in the snorkel just remove the bolt, let it drain, and put it back in. This is just a write-up I decided to do because I see a lot of the same questions, so I hope this helps. If anyone has any suggestions, questions, etc. feel free to post them here. I'll add some pictures to give you a general idea if I wasn't clear with anything.
< Message edited by alan_smith -- 6/21/2008 3:44:36 PM >
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Alan Smith 2000 4x4 Honda 350 Rancher ES Lift Kit High Lifter Lift Springs 27x9.5 Outlaws (front) 27x12.5 Outlaws (rear) 12" ITP SS112 wheels (4) Moose 1" Wheel Spacers Rear Disc Brakes HMF Utility exhaust K&N Air Filter Outerwears Pre-Filter DynoJet Jet Kit Custom Intake Snorkel Custom Exhaust Snorkel Outlaw Super-Duty Clutch Kit Pull Starter Leak Shield
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