RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD

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RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD

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RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 6:26:03 PM

swamp bomb

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normal rust for comparison

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Post #: 61

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 6:28:25 PM

swamp bomb

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and there is no where even thinking about rusting, their is paint and primer on the inside of the frame from the factory

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< Message edited by swamp bomb -- 2/14/2008 11:05:04 PM >

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08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

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Post #: 62

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 6:30:37 PM

swamp bomb

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and another rust free. it's actually rusted where the wood was not. i.e. where the bolts go through for the rear diff, tow hitch

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< Message edited by swamp bomb -- 2/14/2008 11:02:47 PM >

_____________________________

08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

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Post #: 63

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 6:32:27 PM

swamp bomb

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and another

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Post #: 64

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 6:41:26 PM

swamp bomb

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and so wheir all clear. i put this board in after i dented and bent the frame, to try and hopefully straighten the frame and for the record it un dented it but couldn't straighted it out. this frame is over one year old and the wood is pressure treated wood, it was a 2x4x8, i changed the process after this one, by using a 2x6x8 and ripping it to 3 7/8" wide and 1 3/8" tall because it goes in easier to get the wood in the frame and is the exact size it needs to be. and the bike has 1700 miles on the bike so it got used in all weather and riding condition. it will --------NOT------- rot or rust or anything to your frame. accept make it stronger, a lot stronger .............

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Post #: 65

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 10:21:14 PM

mpate

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Here are the pictures of the same frame mod, but using square tubing instead of wood. I am not saying anything against using wood or what swamp bomb has done - he has done a great job. I am just sharing so everyone can see and make their own choice on which way to go. Hope this helps

Square tubing welded, preped, primer, and painted

Go in - it is a tight fit

all the way in and end caps installed

welded back up

Complete - can not tell it is even in there

Hope this helps - larger pictures can be added or sent to you - also can be found at myoutlander.com photo gallery

< Message edited by mpate -- 2/14/2008 10:27:20 PM >

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Post #: 66

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 11:06:47 PM

swamp bomb

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now we give you opions. it's up to every one who's intrested to do the rest.

nice jod with the steel, looks clean. does your cover plate hold it in? or did you cross bolt? i will be doning another wood one soon and will weight it for comparison to the steel. just to know.

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08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

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Post #: 67

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 7:51:40 AM

mpate

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We decided not to spot weld or us pop rivots after we got it in there. It is a very snug fit (have a 2x4 and small sledge hammer handy). So we are going to do some testing to see if it moves or bounces around. If it does then we will drill holes along the side of the frame and spot weld it back up. (or you can use pop rivots). We did spot weld the rear to the frame to keep them from sliding back.

The steel weighted out at about 14lbs (after paint and end caps). Note you will need metal working tools to do this project.

Let the questions begin...We are working on two more of these this weekend since our XC race was canceled due to weather.

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Post #: 68

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 10:37:12 AM

got wake?

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while i do have a welder and plenty of metal working tools, i was thinking about doing the steel tubing in a way that would allow for anybody with a drill, hacksaw/angle grinder/reciprocating saw, and basic hand tools to be able to install. i planned to drill holes large enough for some bolts and washer to go through in the front end on the two outer most bars. then drill through the outside two bars and middle bar the size of the bolt used to hold all 3 together. bolt them together in the front to keep them lined up. wack them into the frame, then drill a hole through the frame and tubes that goes all the way through near the back end. squirt a ton of sealant into the hole where the bolt will go through, and install/tighten the bolt. rather than weld the end cap back on, spray in some expanding foam and then cover with sealant. it should make it water tight and not require a welder. for those of you who have done the mod, see any issues with this plan?

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Post #: 69

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 10:54:27 AM

swamp bomb

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your frame in not water tight because of only that spot but going up behind your radiator there are also holes from the factory and up under the upper sparon the doown tube there are more holes.

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08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

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Post #: 70

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 12:08:47 PM

mpate

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Swamp Bomb is correct - your frame is not water tight. That is why you have two half moons at the end of the frame. So all I was doing is trying to keep water out of the inside of the square tubing and rusting from the inside. I left the factory half moons open so any water can get out.

Not understanding how you plan on bloting these together. If you bolt the tubing together before installing it will never fit - if you drill a hole through the frame and your outside tubing then it is going to be very hard to get your nut on the other side. Maybe I am misreading

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Post #: 71

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 12:25:03 PM

XLCat

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One could stand the machine on its nose and fill the frame with an epoxy/fiber mix. Basically you'd have an extremely rigid, very light, and completely rust resistant frame, in about a half a day. It wouldn't be super cheap though.

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RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 1:35:11 PM

got wake?

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quote:

ORIGINAL: mpate

Swamp Bomb is correct - your frame is not water tight. That is why you have two half moons at the end of the frame. So all I was doing is trying to keep water out of the inside of the square tubing and rusting from the inside. I left the factory half moons open so any water can get out.

Not understanding how you plan on bloting these together. If you bolt the tubing together before installing it will never fit - if you drill a hole through the frame and your outside tubing then it is going to be very hard to get your nut on the other side. Maybe I am misreading

so to make the frame water tight, all holes would need to be filled in. shouldn't be a problem there.

the front bolt for the square tubing would be put in before it goes into the frame, but the bolt head, washers, and nut would be inside the outer square tubing. the outer most walls would need holes large enough for the washer to fit through for it to work. i'm not great with paint, but i'll attatch a pic of what i'm talking about. the red represents larger holes in the outside walls that the bolt, washer, and nut fits through.

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RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 3:28:21 PM

kingforce

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i did the same thing as got wakes pic, only i used 1x1/4 angle on each end and 1x1/4 tubing in the middle..using 5 bolts,nuts,and washers..then 2 bolts in the rear through the frame and angle to hold it in place...was snug going in though, had to use a block of wood and a mini sledge...i also left the back plate off...no welding...

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Post #: 74

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 5:32:45 PM

mpate

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Got wake - good drawing and sure I don't see why it would not work

kingforce - I heard rumor that Penland is using 1 1/4 angle in his frame - not sure just heard that. You way sounds good as well.

As everyone can see there are several ways to skin this cat, but the correct way is going to be what works best for you.

Keep em coming I like reading about new ways people are working on their Can Am's

Tomorrow we are building a cleaning / ATV work rack - picked up the metal today. I will post pictures but should make it much easier to clean and work on your ATV.

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Post #: 75

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/15/2008 6:25:53 PM

topgun

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You can also buy the tubing with holes in it. Would be a little lighter and have holes to bolt together already there. It is galvanized too for rust prevention. But if the tubing is a tight fit, Why would it even need to be bolted together? Just pound them all in together.

I'm still at a loss though as to how one can say 1 1/4" is a tight fit yet 1 3/8" is also tight. 1/8" is a lot of difference.

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Post #: 76

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/16/2008 7:12:16 AM

got wake?

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if you really want to save weight, you can get aluminum square tubing with 1/8" thick walls. about $24 per 6' section, though.

i'd want to bolt the front end together to make sure all bars go in together to the same spot. however, it might be easier to put in two bars, then pound in the third.

if you are worried about corrosion, they do offer 304 stainless steel tubing, but a 6' section will run you about $66.

prices references are from mcmastercarr.

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Post #: 77

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/16/2008 10:21:20 AM

xJDMx

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Is it true that the newer p.t. boards have a lot of carbon in them, and therefore making it rust?

EDIT

"Unfortunately, boosting the copper content in lumber not only makes the new pressure-treated wood more expensive than the old, but it also makes the new stuff significantly more corrosive -- 5 times more to common steel, according to American Wood Preservers Association (AWPA) test results.
Most people already know that they should use corrosion-resistant nails, screws, and connectors when they're building with pressure-treated wood. But now the stakes are higher. Due to the high risk of galvanic reaction between the copper-impregnated wood and any dissimilar metals, fasteners and flashings should be stainless steel and copper whenever possible. At the very least, you need to use better grades of galvanized fasteners. Unfortunately, the fastener grades aren't always marked on the boxes of nails and screws." -AWPA

I was also wondering if instead of just greasing the board why not varnish it and grease it?

< Message edited by xJDMx -- 2/16/2008 10:38:22 AM >

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Post #: 78

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/16/2008 10:25:22 AM

kodiak660

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quote:

ORIGINAL: got wake?

if you really want to save weight, you can get aluminum square tubing with 1/8" thick walls. about $24 per 6' section, though.

i'd want to bolt the front end together to make sure all bars go in together to the same spot. however, it might be easier to put in two bars, then pound in the third.

if you are worried about corrosion, they do offer 304 stainless steel tubing, but a 6' section will run you about $66.

prices references are from mcmastercarr.

Your not going to have much luck "pounding" aluminum

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RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/16/2008 11:35:05 AM

got wake?

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quote:

ORIGINAL: kodiak660

quote:

ORIGINAL: got wake?

if you really want to save weight, you can get aluminum square tubing with 1/8" thick walls. about $24 per 6' section, though.

i'd want to bolt the front end together to make sure all bars go in together to the same spot. however, it might be easier to put in two bars, then pound in the third.

if you are worried about corrosion, they do offer 304 stainless steel tubing, but a 6' section will run you about $66.

prices references are from mcmastercarr.

Your not going to have much luck "pounding" aluminum

clamp a board to the end you'll be pounding and call it a day

and for those too lazy to use a sledge, get the bars in partially, then drive in reverse towards a brick wall

(don't actually try that, its a joke)

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Post #: 80

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 5/13/2008 9:05:59 AM

scaleb26

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Wonder about getting the wood wet and it rotting in there? Maybe water seal it first?

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RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 5/13/2008 3:24:41 PM

swamp bomb

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if you use the wood get a 2x6x8 Pressure Treated board as straight as possible and cover it in grease plenty of it. it would take 20 years of the water , heat to rot that board once its got grease on it

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08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

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Post #: 82

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 8/19/2008 10:19:40 AM

fast350x

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i know this is a pretty old post but a real good one lots of good ideas
and to the thought of the new p.t. wood rotting metal! how long do u guys plan to have your wheelers?
i see the life of a wheeler bout 5-7 years if a post and beam shed can last fer sure 10 years built with standard nails im pretty sure that your frame will last 5-7 years

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RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 8/19/2008 11:00:57 AM

007BF

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Some of us like our bikes to last lonter than 7 years. Whatever mod you do, do it right! Don't cut corners!

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RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 8/19/2008 12:27:57 PM

swamp bomb

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a pressure treated board will rot and rust away to nothing BARE STEEL. like a unpetected nail or lug bolt with is what most everybody is refering to. but remember thats where all the chemcails are inside the board. the chemicals are PRESSURED INTO THE BOARD

your frame is dipped in primer once, then double dipped twice in the black paint. so the metal is well coated.

the PT BOARD is covered liberally with grease.

no where anywhere does the pt board or its chemiacals touch BARE STEEL

this mod will last just as long as your bike does.

i hope this still helps people or the steel mod

wish someone would just lock this thread

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08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

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Post #: 85

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 8/19/2008 2:37:49 PM

MuddinMaynard

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Why lock it? I think it was a great thread. Great idea I never even thought about but, will do it now. I didn't see that many negative comments in here and I just finished reading all 3 pages.

Thanks Swamp bomb for the orgional write up. Good stuff!

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Post #: 86

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 8/19/2008 2:49:55 PM

swamp bomb

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your welcome. im glad you found it usefull.

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08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

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Post #: 87

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 8/19/2008 5:43:52 PM

fast350x

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i will be doing it when i get mine back from the shop wether if it is new or has a replaced frame and it is great write up that is why i brought it back to the surface

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RE: FRAME MOD P