RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD
Register     Acceptable Use Policy     FAQ     Search     Login :: Control Panel :: Log Out
Our Gift to You! 1yr Paid Subscription to Quad Off Road!Our Gift to You! 1yr Paid Subscription to Quad Off Road!
[All Forums]     [Most Popular]     [HL Related]     [OEM]     [Swap Shop]     [Scott's Pics]     Chat Chat     Inbox PM Inbox

RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD

 
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as: Guest
Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
All Forums >> [OEM Discussions] >> Can-Am BRP >> RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD Page: <<   < prev  1 [2] 3 4   next >   >>
Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 7:00:54 AM   
got wake?


Posts: 971
Joined: 9/23/2007
From: daytona beach, fl
Status: offline
you don't have to weld the metal bars together.  a bolt through the frame in the rear is enough to keep the bars in place.  a bolt in the front wouldn't hurt either.

(in reply to swamp bomb)
Post #: 31
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 8:49:05 AM   
braveheart98


Posts: 168
Joined: 4/6/2001
From: Northern Wisconsin
Status: offline
Just being the Devil's advocate, but what about the wood trapping in moisture in side of the frame?

I think it's a great mod to do. But it is something to think about. I'm planning on doing this mod also. But instead of wood or steel tube, I was going to use sheets of Lexan. They use it all the time at work and always have scarp pieces being thrown out. So getting some isn't a issue. Lexan is strong, flexable and lightweight.


(in reply to got wake?)
Post #: 32
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 9:40:07 AM   
swamp bomb


Posts: 989
Joined: 11/5/2007
From: New Hampshire
Status: offline
 if you think about it the board dosen't move once it's in so realy the grease is going to be there forever. if u don't like what i did then don't do it.  the in side of your frame is 1 3/8" x 3 7/8"  
not 1 1/4" x 3 3/4" thats why you have to bolt or weld the steel in because it'll just fall out it's so lose unless your a sloppy welder.  it helps that the wood get wet. 1  it's pressure treated it'll last forever and 2 it swells inside the frame and puts it under pressure making it stronger   

_____________________________

08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

(in reply to braveheart98)
Post #: 33
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 9:54:22 AM   
Metimbo


Posts: 859
Joined: 11/13/2002
From: Memphis, TN
Status: offline
looks great swamp bomb!!  I think it will hold up for a long time being wedged in there with the grease and all.  Good job!
~Tim

_____________________________

High Lifter ProStaff Member
2003 Red Rincon
HMF Pipe, Snorkled, K&N Filter, 29.5" Outlaws, Ape Axles, 2" SSATV Lift, Diamond Plated CV Guards / Bash Plates, Warn Bumper, Hand Warmers
My Pics

(in reply to swamp bomb)
Post #: 34
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 1:02:22 PM   
jones8615


Posts: 794
Joined: 2/5/2007
From: Hollandale, MS
Status: offline
this mod is good and will strengthen the frame. Good instructions and pics. thanks for sharing. I'm a wood worker and I know it will be strong. Like he said water getting on the wood will actually make it stronger because its will swell some. And the grease will preserve the wood even longer. and you don't have to have a planner just raise your table saw blade all the way up and cut the thickness down sideway. awesome job swamp bomb and awesome bike.

< Message edited by jones8615 -- 2/12/2008 1:06:38 PM >


_____________________________

$250 is better than no $50

(in reply to Metimbo)
Post #: 35
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 1:05:40 PM   
JohnCannon


Posts: 1537
Joined: 11/14/2004
From: Mobile Alabama
Status: offline
Great tech article. Everyone is going to have comments about the thread. Lets be sure to be fair to both the one that takes the time to put the thread together along with the people responding back to the article.

I know Penland did use this but he did not use the same type wood. He made sure the wood was dry before putting it into the frame so that when it did get wet it sweld up filling in all the extra space.

_____________________________

MaD MOTORSPORTS
.: www.MUDandDIRT.com :.
YouTube:. http://www.youtube.com/mudanddirt
MaD MOTORSPORTS CUSTOM EFI TUNING

07 Competition Sports/MaD Outlander X

PROUND SPONSOR OF
Team Gander Mtn
Bama Boggers
Matt Thompson
Brutewise

I support the troops 100%. You guys are my heros..

(in reply to Metimbo)
Post #: 36
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 6:30:40 PM   
xJDMx


Posts: 840
Joined: 9/27/2007
From: Northwest Iowa
Status: offline
Are you saying get the board now and wait till mid-spring to put it in?

What type of wood, would work the best?

_____________________________

_ _ _07' Outlander 650XT_

http://www.highlifter.com/forum/26%22_TerraCross_XDs_on_SS212_Black_Wheels/m_2981636/tm.htm

(in reply to JohnCannon)
Post #: 37
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 8:44:40 PM   
1hillbilly

 

Posts: 15
Joined: 2/2/2008
From: kindersley sask
Status: offline
what size of lift do you have and that wood should not put to much pressure on the frame when it swells, should it. i was wondering how to do that ,thanks.have you heard of many frames breaking.

_____________________________

07,800outty,clutched,hmf slip on pipe,uni airfilter, intake moved, 29.5 laws on ss rims.

(in reply to xJDMx)
Post #: 38
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 8:54:41 PM   
swamp bomb


Posts: 989
Joined: 11/5/2007
From: New Hampshire
Status: offline
the lift is a six " and the board will swell but is limited to the frame rail size. like cannon said try to find a drier piece of wood if you don't wanna wait 6 months or however long it takes for wood to dry. the wood still alows the frame to twist alittle unlike the steel. this makes the lower spar undentable or if you dent it with wood in it your dead

_____________________________

08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

(in reply to 1hillbilly)
Post #: 39
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 11:09:33 PM   
1hillbilly

 

Posts: 15
Joined: 2/2/2008
From: kindersley sask
Status: offline
thanks for the post, im going to do that for some extra support, quad looks good, im looking at 4'' lift.

_____________________________

07,800outty,clutched,hmf slip on pipe,uni airfilter, intake moved, 29.5 laws on ss rims.

(in reply to swamp bomb)
Post #: 40
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/12/2008 11:15:21 PM   
NBM


Posts: 701
Joined: 1/24/2007
Status: offline
PM sent to U 1Hillbilly.

(in reply to 1hillbilly)
Post #: 41
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 5:45:02 AM   
BLH


Posts: 372
Joined: 11/16/2000
From: upstate NY
Status: offline
well I was thinking... what about those plastic boards you can buy?  I don't know, would that be better than wood? 

_____________________________

97 Explorer 500

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/SFC_Hall/ATV/

(in reply to NBM)
Post #: 42
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 6:14:35 AM   
jones8615


Posts: 794
Joined: 2/5/2007
From: Hollandale, MS
Status: offline
wood is good!!


_____________________________

$250 is better than no $50

(in reply to BLH)
Post #: 43
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 11:07:45 AM   
Fastford

 

Posts: 216
Joined: 1/3/2008
Status: offline
quote:

wood is good!!







No complaints from my wife...... or yours for that matter.  


LOL

< Message edited by Fastford -- 2/13/2008 11:11:29 AM >

(in reply to jones8615)
Post #: 44
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 4:24:56 PM   
topgun


Posts: 1185
Joined: 8/2/2001
From: Western PA
Status: offline
Great idea, have to use the dry wood for sure though. I'm also wondering about the newer plastic manufactured wood, if it would work.

< Message edited by topgun -- 2/13/2008 4:30:51 PM >


_____________________________

2008 Can Am Renegade
Ricochett, PRP Stabilizer, X Hand Guards, Day Light, Ceramic Coating, BRP Rack, Reverse Lights.

(in reply to swamp bomb)
Post #: 45
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 4:28:37 PM   
Metimbo


Posts: 859
Joined: 11/13/2002
From: Memphis, TN
Status: offline
Well, don't think you would get the swelling effect with the "plastic wood".  Not sure about how much they will bend or possibly even just break??
~Tim

_____________________________

High Lifter ProStaff Member
2003 Red Rincon
HMF Pipe, Snorkled, K&N Filter, 29.5" Outlaws, Ape Axles, 2" SSATV Lift, Diamond Plated CV Guards / Bash Plates, Warn Bumper, Hand Warmers
My Pics

(in reply to topgun)
Post #: 46
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 6:12:12 PM   
austin229


Posts: 132
Joined: 1/26/2007
From: Tifton, Georgia
Status: offline
ive got mine put back together on a new frame... swamp bomb, did you notice if your new frame is any different than your old one? i guess i got an 08 frame or somthing because the shock mounts are stouter than on my old frame.

_____________________________

2007 outlander 800
31" outlaws
14" vision bruisers
2" hl lift
2" pipe lift
epi clutch kit
hmf penland and gen 3
fully snorkled
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/557745122UhHHpp

TEAM WHITE TRASH BOGGERS
-BRUTE RECOVERY-

(in reply to Metimbo)
Post #: 47
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 7:57:28 PM   
KYRenegade


Posts: 16
Joined: 10/29/2007
Status: offline
Hey Folks, was reading about this mod and it looks great! I have an 07 Renegade and was thinking about strengthening the frame.

Not to bash this post at all but please read the attached info about modern day CCA treated lumber.
I am a construction Superintendent by trade and have had to attend alot of continuing education on building materials. I have seen new type treated ACQ  or CCA eat a 1/2" dia shank lag bolt in half in about a years time. The board being covered in grease may prevent this. Hot dipped electro galvanized metal is the only thing this stuff will not corrode. I may be wrong about all this just want people to be aware. Maybe others could do some searching to make sure the treated is safe to use.

Use corrosion-resistant nails and joist hangers Unfortunately, boosting the copper content in lumber not only makes the new pressure-treated wood more expensive than the old, but it also makes the new stuff significantly more corrosive -- 5 times more to common steel, according to American Wood Preservers Association (AWPA) test results.
Most people already know that they should use corrosion-resistant nails, screws, and connectors when they're building with pressure-treated wood. But now the stakes are higher. Due to the high risk of galvanic reaction between the copper-impregnated wood and any dissimilar metals, fasteners and flashings should be stainless steel and copper whenever possible. At the very least, you need to use better grades of galvanized fasteners. Unfortunately, the fastener grades aren't always marked on the boxes of nails and screws.
Electrogalvanized stock is rated with a class scale that ranges from 5 to 110. Hot-dipped galvanization ratings are based on the actual weight of the coating. For example, a G-60 rating means that there's 0.60 oz. of zinc per sq. ft. of metal.
The G-60 and G-90 hot-dipped coatings are what we've been using until now. But engineers suggest stepping up to the heavier G-185 coatings for hot-dipped galvanized products, and they recommend class ratings of 40 or above when using electrogalvanized fasteners, such as expansion bolts.
Currently, G-185 is the best galvanized protection that you can buy. Simpson's ZMax line and USP Structural Connectors' Triple Zinc line both are rated at G-185. As for nails and screws, many of the composite coatings that are currently available are still good for the new treatments (see www.osmose.comto read about fastener recommendations), but you should verify this by carefully reading the label.
Perhaps the most important point to keep in mind relating to copper-based wood treatments and galvanic corrosion is to avoid aluminum flashings altogether. Aluminum corrodes quickly in the presence of high copper concentrations.







quote:

ORIGINAL: swamp bomb

So i just finished giving the  frame some wood here are the pics.

this is the rearend when you start 



Thumbnail Image



_____________________________

07 Renegade, Elka's, Muzzy Full Ti pipe, PRP Stabilizer, Beadlocks, Dalton, Richochet, H2O gauge, Cycra Bark Busters

(in reply to swamp bomb)
Post #: 48
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 9:23:21 PM   
xJDMx


Posts: 840
Joined: 9/27/2007
From: Northwest Iowa
Status: offline
So you say steel or aluminum inside the frame?

_____________________________

_ _ _07' Outlander 650XT_

http://www.highlifter.com/forum/26%22_TerraCross_XDs_on_SS212_Black_Wheels/m_2981636/tm.htm

(in reply to KYRenegade)
Post #: 49
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/13/2008 11:07:05 PM   
mudder500

 

Posts: 1318
Joined: 5/12/2006
Status: offline
he lost me!!

_____________________________

06 Dodge CTD 2500
smarty
66 over s480
studs
ats arc flow
air dog

(in reply to xJDMx)
Post #: 50
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 1:54:35 AM   
BLH


Posts: 372
Joined: 11/16/2000
From: upstate NY
Status: offline
what he is saying is that... treated lumber causes metal to rust...badly rust.  he is only warning us that if we choose this mod, that we should do some research of our own and decide for ourselves.   that's all... went about this in a very good way, no bashing... very good.  I suggested the plastic because I was concerned about corrosion of the steel, but I had no "real" knowledge, so I didn't mention it.

Now for those that have done this and do their own research and find that this wood could damage and ever further weaken their frame... how would they ever get the board out? 


_____________________________

97 Explorer 500

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/SFC_Hall/ATV/

(in reply to mudder500)
Post #: 51
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 5:43:10 AM   
swamp bomb


Posts: 989
Joined: 11/5/2007
From: New Hampshire
Status: offline
the old frame that i just swap out for the new one has the pt board mod and is over a year old, i will cut a piece of the frame out and show you, so you can see for yourself. later today

_____________________________

08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

(in reply to BLH)
Post #: 52
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 9:59:32 AM   
topgun


Posts: 1185
Joined: 8/2/2001
From: Western PA
Status: offline
It's still not a bad idea, I think the grease would do just fine. Just remember as mentioned above that the wood will shrink if it is not dry. This new wood you buy is very wet. If you install it that way and not let it dry out for many months, it will shrink and flop around in your frame.

For those worried, why not use a pc of Oak or other hardwood? I know it is not treated but that stuff would still probably outlive your frame. Just be sure it is dry before installing. And use the grease on the board. A hardwood like oak would actually be a lot stronger than the pine treated wood.

Swamp Bomb, question for you. Are there any openings in the frame other than the drain holes in the back that you cut off to do this mod and the hole up top where the tank vent is?

_____________________________

2008 Can Am Renegade
Ricochett, PRP Stabilizer, X Hand Guards, Day Light, Ceramic Coating, BRP Rack, Reverse Lights.

(in reply to swamp bomb)
Post #: 53
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 10:18:33 AM   
JohnCannon


Posts: 1537
Joined: 11/14/2004
From: Mobile Alabama
Status: offline
Looks like a good idea for a How-To video.

_____________________________

MaD MOTORSPORTS
.: www.MUDandDIRT.com :.
YouTube:. http://www.youtube.com/mudanddirt
MaD MOTORSPORTS CUSTOM EFI TUNING

07 Competition Sports/MaD Outlander X

PROUND SPONSOR OF
Team Gander Mtn
Bama Boggers
Matt Thompson
Brutewise

I support the troops 100%. You guys are my heros..

(in reply to topgun)
Post #: 54
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 10:32:28 AM   
mpate


Posts: 233
Joined: 11/2/2006
Status: offline
We are doing two Outlanders with the metal supports next weekend.  I did my renegade and it worked perfect, but we did take the time to prep the metal, prime and paint it before the install.  We even added end caps to keep water out.  These are XC racing machines and not really mudding machines, so the wood maybe the way to go if you are going to mud race it - then again if you added solid sqaure tubing to the bottom you will add alot of hidden weight to help keep the tires down and pulling. 

I added 13lbs to my renegade with the mod I did and it cost me $8.45 for the metal and about $10 for the primer and paint. 

_____________________________

~ Matt Pate
~ I-45 Racing Bog Team
~ I-45 Racing XC Race Team
~ Team IronQuad
~ ATVCCS #845

Thanks to my 2008 sponsors:
I-45 Sales, Rural Shade ATV Park, HMF, FastFlexx Co.,Steel MX, Panolin Oils, ProClean 1000, Can Am, ATVInsider.com, MyOutlander.com, ATVParkVideos.com

www.I45Racing.com

IronQuad Challenge - Texas' Own ATV Racing Event

ATVInsider - New & Free ATV Classifieds - Check it out!

(in reply to JohnCannon)
Post #: 55
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 10:45:23 AM   
JohnCannon


Posts: 1537
Joined: 11/14/2004
From: Mobile Alabama
Status: offline
How tight of a fit was the metal top to bottom, left to right? Any space between the motor and the frame?

_____________________________

MaD MOTORSPORTS
.: www.MUDandDIRT.com :.
YouTube:. http://www.youtube.com/mudanddirt
MaD MOTORSPORTS CUSTOM EFI TUNING

07 Competition Sports/MaD Outlander X

PROUND SPONSOR OF
Team Gander Mtn
Bama Boggers
Matt Thompson
Brutewise

I support the troops 100%. You guys are my heros..

(in reply to mpate)
Post #: 56
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 12:15:47 PM   
mpate


Posts: 233
Joined: 11/2/2006
Status: offline
It was a snug fit - I have pictures I will post this afternoon.  But it fit perfect inside the frame same as the wood.  Just cut the back plate insert and weld it back on.  It was tight enough you had to hammer it in towards the end.  Mine had no movement

_____________________________

~ Matt Pate
~ I-45 Racing Bog Team
~ I-45 Racing XC Race Team
~ Team IronQuad
~ ATVCCS #845

Thanks to my 2008 sponsors:
I-45 Sales, Rural Shade ATV Park, HMF, FastFlexx Co.,Steel MX, Panolin Oils, ProClean 1000, Can Am, ATVInsider.com, MyOutlander.com, ATVParkVideos.com

www.I45Racing.com

IronQuad Challenge - Texas' Own ATV Racing Event

ATVInsider - New & Free ATV Classifieds - Check it out!

(in reply to JohnCannon)
Post #: 57
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 6:19:47 PM   
swamp bomb


Posts: 989
Joined: 11/5/2007
From: New Hampshire
Status: offline
this is the part of the frame i cut to see.


Thumbnail Image


Attachment (1)

< Message edited by swamp bomb -- 2/14/2008 6:23:45 PM >


_____________________________

08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

(in reply to got wake?)
Post #: 58
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 6:23:25 PM   
swamp bomb


Posts: 989
Joined: 11/5/2007
From: New Hampshire
Status: offline
this is the first one i did. this piece of wood is a un riped and un planned board. it was a 2x4 that was 1 1/5" and that is why the frame has a crown on top. that's why you have to plan it down


Thumbnail Image


Attachment (1)

_____________________________

08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

(in reply to swamp bomb)
Post #: 59
RE: FRAME MOD P.T. BOARD - 2/14/2008 6:24:53 PM   
swamp bomb


Posts: 989
Joined: 11/5/2007
From: New Hampshire
Status: offline
and cut open


Thumbnail Image


Attachment (1)

_____________________________

08 FCP BRUTE 750 "ORANGE CARNAGE"
28x10 S!LVERBACKS
08 CAN-AM RENEGADE 500
28x10 S!LVERBACKS

OLD BIKEs
07 6" CATVOS OUTLANDER, 32" S!LVERBACKS
03 RINCON, 30" MUDLITES

VID

(in reply to swamp bomb)
Post #: 60
Page:   <<   < prev  1 [2] 3 4   next >   >>