1. The wet(centrifugal) clutch is number 28 in the diagram.  This component sits inside the crankcase cover and is bathed in engine oil. The wet-clutch is actually directly bolted onto the crankshaft(#26 shows the bolt).  As the motor turns, so does the wet-clutch.  At a certain rpm(this can be adjusted by changing stall springs, in the same manner as installing a manual clutch kit, with the same effect), the centrifugal force begins to become greater than the spring force holding the clutch plates(seen on the outer circumference of the wet-clutch) in place.  At this rpm, the clutch plates begin to "fly out". In doing this, they eventually grab the clutch housing(#22) thus turning the primary transmission and initiating quad movement. Once rpm falls below "engagement point", or "back to idle" the force of the springs becomes greater than the centrifugal force on the clutches and therefore pulls the clutches back in.  Movement is ceased and the quad is at rest...
2. When the wet-clutch grabs the clutch housing at X RPM, this engages the primary transmission.  The primary is made up of two sheaves.  While the inner sheave(#17) is locked in a fixed position and has nothing to do with engagement and gear ratio, the outer sheave(#15) slides side to side along a shaft(#13) and is what actually changes primary gear ratio(I say primary here, because it is a separate, but interconnected, event than secondary gear ratio, which will be discussed next).  The outer sheave contains 8 rollers which are held in place by a fixed outer plate(#11).  These rollers travel on ramps and rely on centrifugal force to determine the primary gear ratio of the quad.  This process is quite similar in function to a baitcasting fishing reel.  As rpms increase, the primary turns faster.  The faster it turns, the more the rollers want to "fly out".  This forces the outer primary sheave(#15) to go inward on the shaft(#13).  As this happens, the belt goes up higher on the sheaves, and the gear ratio is raised.  Once you let off the throttle, rpms will drop, and the primary weights will begin to go back into place at the base of the ramps.  At this point, your probably wandering..."Ok, so where is the resistance and why does the rollers return to the base of the ramp".  This function is controlled by the secondary spring, which is my next topic. 
   
3. The secondary clutch(#1) is what provides output to the secondary transmission(where the belt drive quad becomes identical to the gear driven).  This clutch is much simpler in nature than both the primary and the wet-clutch.  It consists of an outer and an inner sheave, forced together by a large secondary spring.  At rest, the belt rides in the very top of these secondary sheaves because of the spring.  As rpms increase, the primary engages the belt and it begins to rise up in the primary.  In doing this, the belt begins to ride lower in the secondary and again, gear ratio is increased.  As rpms return closer to idle, the secondary spring begins to have greater force than primary rollers(the two controlling factors of actual gear ratio here) and the belt starts to ride higher in the secondary, thus riding lower in the primary, and in this case lowering gear ratio.

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A second place trophy is only useful as a doorstop!

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A second place trophy is only useful as a doorstop!

1. The wet clutch.  This is modified by changing out the stall springs, which "hold in" the clutch plates(the outer radius of number 28).  In stock form, the springs are matched to engine rpm, meaning there is little-to-no stall.  This is why once you give it gas, it goes.  There are a number of aftermarket springs available.  These springs increase stall in increments of 500 rpms.  By increasing the stall, this effectively means that it takes more engine rpm to engage the wet clutch and thus the primary transmission.  By having this increased stall, it means that the quad is farther into the "powerband" when it starts moving.  This improves off the line performance because, essentially, the motor is already spinning faster when it engages the wet clutch.  It should also be noted that, although this increases the rpm at which the belt engages, it does not effect top speed.  Once the wet-clutch "flies out" and locks up with the clutch basket(#22), it acts the same as it did before the mod, meaning it "locks" the primary transmission into the crankshaft and they still turn at the same rpm.  The downsides to modifying this is the lowend powerband becomes somewhat less predictable, meaning that it tends to "lurch" when engaging the belt.  Increasing stall on the wet-clutch will also increase the wear properties on the clutch plates.  They will wear out faster due to increased stall.  This is simply because the increased rpm of engagement means they have to "grab" that much harder and the friction required to grab will wear on the clutchplates.  How much faster is anybody's guess...I definately wouldn't be concerned with it if you are a mudrider.
2. The primary transmission.  This is adjusted by changing the weight of the rollers(#14) and modifying the distance that they can travel, which can be accomplished in a number of ways.  First, the stock weights are considered good "all around" weights.  This is less than ideal for a mudrider.  In order to keep the quad in low longer, you should go with lighter weights.  Lighter weights take more force to fly out, which effectively keeps the quad in low gear longer.  It's important to setup your secondary spring first(we will discuss this next), as the secondary spring setup will have a major effect on the weight of rollers that you can use.  Ideally after setting up your secondary, you get rollers that "barely" make it to the top of the travel path.  This would provide the lowest gear possible, but would also be a matter of trial and error.  Once you decide on the proper weight for your application, it's time to maximize the efficiency of the primary transmission.  The first thing you should do is chalkline your primary sheaves perpendicular to the travel path of the belt.  Once you do this, you want to rev the transmission and run the belt from as low as it will go in the sheave to as high as it will go.  Chances are, you will have between 1/4-1" of chalk left on both the bottomend and topend of the sheaves.  This means that your primary transmission is not running as efficiently as it should.  Ideally, the belt should run from the very bottom of the sheaves to the very top.  By modifying it to do so, it will allow the quad to have much, much more bottomend and topend power.  This effectively widens the powerband.  There are a number of ways to do this, which I will cover later tonight as time permits...
3. The secondary spring.  This should actually come second in this process, as the spring you are using, or the modifications your doing to the stock spring will have a direct correlation to the weight of the primary rollers that you can use.  By stiffening this spring, it will hold the secondary in low gear longer as well as speed up the backshift of the primary.  This has the reverse effect on the "ramping up" of the primary, however.  By changing the spring rate of the secondary to a stiffer spring, it makes it harder for the primary to shift up(weight fly out) thus keeping it in low gear longer.   For this reason, you need to match the spring with the weights.  The downside to stiffening the secondary spring is that, until the primary modifications are done, it will cost you topspeed.  This is because by stiffening the spring, the belt tends to stay higher in the secondary. 

quote:


A second place trophy is only useful as a doorstop!

quote:


A second place trophy is only useful as a doorstop!

quote:


A second place trophy is only useful as a doorstop!

quote:


A second place trophy is only useful as a doorstop!

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ORIGINAL: bustedknuckles

"Iam going to cut bend and weld the roller 'cover' "

WHAT?