alwaysbroke
Posts: 1040
Joined: 2/1/2005
From: So. Illinois, Down by the River
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quote:
ORIGINAL: wisconsin rider
Ive been reading any and all posts on this subject as I am experiencing the same symptoms and am ready to order the parts from my local JD dealer. My question is, how difficult is it to do the install. I noticed that some folks were having problems removing the axles from the housing . Are there any tricks for removing the half shafts? Does the radiator/ fan have to come out? Any other tips anyone can offer?
Gotta git'r done
Lokimak posted this in a thread:
Sounds like you have pitted rollers or a magnetized Armature plate, you can replace the A-plate with John Deer P/N MIA 10656 for $17 and the roller kit is John Deer P/N MIA 10666 for $24. The minor repair kit has all the seals and O-ring you need, P/N MIA 10654.
The factory spec for resistance is between 22.8 ohms to 25.2 ohms.
The way I get the diff out:
Remove tires, remove the brake caliper and hang it by a wire, remove axle nut, remove the hub/brake assembly, remove A-arm from ball joint stud, pull axle out of strut tower/hub, soak axle with penetrating oil (might want to do this prior to starting to get a head start), jerk axle out of diff, move to other side and repeat. unplug the fan wire under the front storage box and unbolt and remove fan from radiator, unplug diff wire from under the pod and tie a piece of wire to it, then tie the other end of the wire to the handle bars, pull the diff wire down ( carefully so it does not hang) and untie the piece of wire and leave it hanging, this way all you have to do is re-tie the diff wire to it and pull the wires up instead of fighting the wires and trying to snake it through there. Use a punch and knock out the prop shaft roll pin, soak prop shaft and diff input shaft with penetrating oil, now unbolt diff from frame. Use a pry bar or LARGE screw driver and pry between the end of the input shaft and the prop shaft u-joint to get the diff out. You will have to wiggle the diff and turn it some to get it to clear the radiator and the frame support.
To test the A-plate you will need to crack the diff and then plug the coil back into the wires under the pod, or supply 12 volts another way, and engage your AWD, be sure bike is in H or L gear, then try to turn your A-plate by hand. It should be very difficult to turn the A-plate by hand when the coil is energized. Now switch off your AWD and try turning the A-plate. It should turn freely with no feelings of reistance or snagging. If it does not turn easily then it is magnetized. All you NEED to replace is the A-plate if it is the culprit; however you may want to go ahead and due a full rebuild while you have it apart.
I would change my fluid first to see if that helps any if you have not already done that. Remeber it only takes 5oz of Demand Drive Fluid for non-ADC bikes and 5.2oz for ADC equipped bikes. Good Luck.
Here is the thread he posted that in:
http://www.highlifter.com/forum/Stays_in_AWD_mode_slightly_when_in_2X4/m_2894351/tm.htm
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RE: john deere front diff parts work - 
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