KQ700 clutch squelch


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KQ700 clutch squelch

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KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/12/2008 2:51:10 PM

newKQdude

Posts: 37
Joined: 9/27/2008
From: Northern Iowa
Status: offline

Did clutch kit and since then it squelches when i put it into high from a stop sometimes it does it in low, but not as noticable. Then once i get it going it is fine and makes no noises after that. I seems to be gettin worse or as the machine warms up.

Going to take it apart Saturday, no time inbetween then.

_____________________________

Stock(ish) KingQuad700
CVT snorked
Airbox snorkeled
yellow spring
18gram weights
Mud Hooks Xtreme 26-9-12 & 26-12-12

Post #: 1

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/12/2008 3:17:39 PM

kodiak660

Posts: 4362
Joined: 12/29/2002
From: 6,000ft and climbing
Status: offline

Check the belt specs.

You might need a new belt.

They will make noise if you stop hard because it puts the pulleys and belt in the wrong position for take off.

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(in reply to newKQdude)

Post #: 2

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/12/2008 5:09:21 PM

4man0822

Posts: 3435
Joined: 5/8/2007
From: God's Country South MS.
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: kodiak660

Check the belt specs.

You might need a new belt.

They will make noise if you stop hard because it puts the pulleys and belt in the wrong position for take off.

Very solid info! I was gonna recommend getting a new belt & while in the cvt neway, to take a good look at everything to make sure all's in tact, with no debris!!! Hope this helps, & if the belt's not the issue, you have a spare

Later, good luck & Holla back

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I'm just some dumb, not plumb dumb, huh!!
My new ride= 08 750 King Quad Belt snorked, VDI, M109R injector, EPI yellow spring, 18 gram weights, 2mm shim mod(Coop 45 mod) Twin Air & Yoshi=WOW!
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"STOLEN"--- 07 700 Camo King Yoshi Pipe, PC3, UNI
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Post #: 3

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/12/2008 7:52:45 PM

Stupid_Newbie

Posts: 269
Joined: 8/29/2007
From: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada
Status: offline

Yeah, sometimes, when you stop quickly, the belt doesnt get a chance to ride all the way to the top of the secondary, and thus is a little lose on the primary. So when you get on it again, the primary gets a bit of a head start, and the belt barks a little. To solve this, simply start slowly after a hard stop, or stop, and let it roll a few feet, before going heavy again.

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07 Red Grizzly 700FI EPS, 27" 589s, EPI Clutch Kit, 2mm Primary Shim, Uni Filter, 2" Snorkels, Heated Grips, Powermadd Hand Guards with Wrap Arounds.
Planned Mods: VDI Copperhead, Swamp Series Pipe, Laws, 4" SLC Lift, Hanger Mod
------------------------------------------------------------
06 Red Suzuki King Quad. 3" XPATV Lift, 27" 589s, Yoshi Pipe, VDI Copperhead, EPI Clutch kit, Heated Grips, DJ Castor Mod, Snorkels

(in reply to 4man0822)

Post #: 4

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/15/2008 10:48:23 AM

newKQdude

Posts: 37
Joined: 9/27/2008
From: Northern Iowa
Status: offline

Well i took my clutch cover off and i found my belt is still loose and i can't find a reason why it should be. i'm guessing that is my problem. Any ideas why it isn't tightening up?

_____________________________

Stock(ish) KingQuad700
CVT snorked
Airbox snorkeled
yellow spring
18gram weights
Mud Hooks Xtreme 26-9-12 & 26-12-12

(in reply to Stupid_Newbie)

Post #: 5

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/15/2008 7:57:38 PM

cleverklutz

Posts: 288
Joined: 1/4/2008
From: Gardenton, MB, Canada
Status: offline

This sounds like you put your yellow spring in backwards. When you put the "cap" on that holds the spring in place, you have to rotate it about a 1/4 turn past where the holes line up to get the cap onto the slot. I hope you're doing the work yourself or that statement won't make much sense.

When you turn the spring, it has to be done so that the coils get tighter, and it's about 1/4 turn. If you turned it so they got looser, and it took lots of turning to get it there, you did it backwards. I'd say take the cap off and put it back together again, paying attention to which way the spring turns.

I doubt the belt being underspec is your problem, the yellow spring puts more tension on the belt than the stocker, so you should have less belt squawk. The green spring is even more aggressive. My setup works nice, but I want to go to a lighter weight (14g ish) and add competition stall springs. If you do have to replace the belt, I'd recommend using the oem belt as others blow up at speed when riding due to improper cooling. (I'm guessing by your sig you like to ride fast.)

Hope that helps,
Ben

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2007 Red Kingquad 700, K&N w/prefilter, gutted airbox, HMF exhaust, Warn 2500RT, Coop45 #1 & #2, 16g rollers, EPI green spring, VDI, IAT relocate, M109R injector, Perfex Long Travel kit, HL lift springs, YFZ 450 front shocks, dual rear shocks, snorkeled cvt, black SS108 wheels, 26" Supergrip Mud "Puppies" Quadrax front bumper, Kimpex rear bumper, Wes Industries seat

(in reply to newKQdude)

Post #: 6

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/17/2008 8:30:42 AM

RiNiFLeX01

Posts: 30
Joined: 10/7/2008
Status: offline

Its Belt Bark:

When you throttle up to take off, you get a sound from the CVT like a dog barking, and the machine lurches forward as though you had popped a manual clutch. How come?

Well, it's due to the way you last came to a stop. It's a mini version of what you hear when a big plane comes in for a landing and the stationary rubber tires touch down at over 100 MPH onto the tarmac. Same reason for that sound too: moving hard surface contacts stopped rubber and has to get the rubber up to speed.
The King Quad (and other brands of constant tension CVT) bark happens when you lock up the back brake until you come to a stop, or when you come to a stop while still on the throttle, such as when you become stuck in wet snow. It can also happen more readily when you come to a quick stop while going uphill.

When this type of situation stops the ATV, the whole rear drive train stops suddenly while the CVT is still partway into its operating range, and the belt will remain stuck somewhere down the rear clutch instead of being able to return all the way to the outside (greatest reduction) location, as it normally does when the rear clutch can turn enough to fully close.
The front clutch however has nothing to prevent IT from returning to its fully open/smallest pulley size, and it does this as soon as you let off the throttle. This results in some slack in the belt, in a system that's supposed to be constant tension.
Therefore when you put it into another gear, or start out again, or rev up again before the drive train can turn, the front clutch will spin inside that slack, throwing the weights out and narrowing the sheaves, and the belt gives a bark as the spinning front clutch grabs the belt again.

Anytime you stop the drive train by locking up the rear wheel when the CVT is somewhere within its range of gear reduction and then you let the motor drop rpm more than the CVT is 'set' for, you get slack in the belt, and when you rev it up again you'll get a bark when the front clutch spins up again, the weights fly out, and the clutch grabs the belt with all the spinning mass of the crank and flywheel behind it.

That bark is pretty much harmless, but that's why you hear it.

If you like to skid to a stop and want to avoid the bark, then whenever you stop like that you can either back off and let it roll a bit just before coming to a full stop, or otherwise you can put it in neutral and give it a brief little rev before letting it go back to idle and putting it in a gear. This lets the clutches reset themselves and it will be business as usual when you take off.

Note: In some cases a bark can mean there might be something mechanically wrong with the rear clutch, not letting it do its job of backshifting to compensate for what the front clutch is doing, and keeping slack out of the system. Dirt or glaze can cause that.

(in reply to cleverklutz)

Post #: 7

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/17/2008 8:33:20 AM

RiNiFLeX01

Posts: 30
Joined: 10/7/2008
Status: offline

I have belt bark also, before i did my clutch kit. Everything was normal when i tore it down for the kit. Still does it a little after the kit also. I just roll a bit and feather the throttle to avoid if i come to a hard stop

ps. I didnt just write that, its from NYROC tech tips

< Message edited by RiNiFLeX01 -- 11/17/2008 8:35:54 AM >

(in reply to RiNiFLeX01)

Post #: 8

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/17/2008 8:36:40 PM

newKQdude

Posts: 37
Joined: 9/27/2008
From: Northern Iowa
Status: offline

It's not the way i stopped, i know it barks then. i took it apart and put it back together the same as last time and it works. BTW my yellow spring was in the right way too, so that wasn't it. Still confused why it did it but it runs now

_____________________________

Stock(ish) KingQuad700
CVT snorked
Airbox snorkeled
yellow spring
18gram weights
Mud Hooks Xtreme 26-9-12 & 26-12-12

(in reply to RiNiFLeX01)

Post #: 9

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/18/2008 8:59:35 AM

RiNiFLeX01

Posts: 30
Joined: 10/7/2008
Status: offline

is your belt in spec?? Check the width of it, if it is to narrow the belt may be stretched if its on take off. But I cant imagine a stocker going bad that quick. '07 right? How many miles you got?

(in reply to newKQdude)

Post #: 10

RE: KQ700 clutch squelch - 11/19/2008 7:24:16 PM

cleverklutz

Posts: 288
Joined: 1/4/2008
From: Gardenton, MB, Canada
Status: offline

I'm wondering then how you torqued the primary. Do you know the belt can't touch the sheaves when you torque the primary? The belt needs to be hammered into the secondary as far as it can go, and then you have to make sure the belt isn't getting squished by the primary when you torque it. I always wiggle the belt afterwards to make sure that I didn't squish it, if I did, I retorque it to 80 ft lbs. again. That's the only thing I can think of that would make it loose if it wasn't the spring. Normally the symptom of an improperly torqued primary is that the roller plate that spins the outer sheave on the primary works loose and strips the splines off the plate, or becomes totally dislodged and exits through the clutch cover. There are several I've seen that happen too, but I don't think any had really mentioned that their belt had been slipping.

How did you torque your primary clutch?

Ben

_____________________________

2007 Red Kingquad 700, K&N w/prefilter, gutted airbox, HMF exhaust, Warn 2500RT, Coop45 #1 & #2, 16g rollers, EPI green spring, VDI, IAT relocate, M109R injector, Perfex Long Travel kit, HL lift springs, YFZ 450 front shocks, dual rear shocks, snorkeled cvt, black SS108 wheels, 26" Supergrip Mud "Puppies" Quadrax front bumper, Kimpex rear bumper, Wes Industries seat

(in reply to RiNiFLeX01)

Post #: 11