mudcrazee
Posts: 8065
Joined: 3/2/2005
From: Gulfport, MS
Status: offline
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I'll copy and paste some info I've typed on this, be patient and I'll help as much as I can.
The belt deflection can be measured by placing a straight edge "ruler" ontop of the belt from the secondary to the primary. Using approx. 13 lbs of pressure with your finger, push down on the belt in the center between the primary and secondary. With another ruler or tape measure, in mm or inches measure how far down the belt goes from the straight edge "ruler" you laid across the top of the primary and secondary. This is your deflection. For the BF, normal deflection is 22mm-27mm or 0.87~1.06in. I have found that 22mm-25mm is the best. If you are around 27mm your gonna want to tighten it. The way the belt is tightened is to remove a determined shim out of the secondary sheave by measuring the shims in the sheave and determining how many mm you need to decrease. (The rule of thumb is: 0.1mm (0.004in.) change in spacer thickness equals about 1.3 mm(0.051in) change in belt deflection.) There are 5 shims availabable with different thicknesses. When Kawi shimmed your quad they put in your secondary what they needed to get your belt in proper deflection. Some people have 2 shims, some have 3. Others can be purchased at your kawi dealer.
What happens when you remove a shim for tightening, the secondary sheaves move closer to the housing while the primary stays the same. This is what tightens your belt.
3 tools you absolutely need are the spring compressor, circlip remover and primary puller. All the rest are usually in a metric tool kit: 10mm socket CVT cover, 19mm socket for primary, 27mm socket for secondary. Flat tip screwdriver to take out the four bushings that hold the secondary together. Broomstick to hold the primary. 1/4 drive or extension hold the secondary pretty good if you can wedge it in the outer sheave and floorboard just right. Brake cleaner to clean out all the belt dust and trash and moly grease for the little bushings and the O rings on the secondary shafts. Oh and a torque wrench so you don't drive the primary back in to far. You can measure the outer sheaves on both in relation to the top of the inside CVT fixed casing if you don't have a torque wrench prior to removing them so when you tighten them back up you get the primary back to the same measurement and whatever you shim the secondary down to should be minus in your new measurement when your done.
To get to the shims, you have to remove the primary clutch and take off the belt. Then remove the secondary and place it into the spring compressor, make a mark on each sheave so when you put it back together they are the same, compress it, remove the circlip and decompress the spring. Pop out the bushing in the center of the sheaves and pull apart. You should then see the shims. If you have a gap tool, you can measure the shims and determine which one to take out to acheive the desired new deflection based on what your starting deflection was.
< Message edited by mudcrazee -- 4/10/2006 12:22:10 PM >
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2005 Camo BF 750, SSATV 2" lift, JE Pistons, HL Rack Radiator, 29.5's on ITP 5's, BS, 2" Exhaust Snorkel, Dyna CDI, HL Module, HL Extreme Clutch, HL Diamond Bumper and Bash. BFWDP
2007 EE Rhino660 28" Outlaws on Castlerocks, Stereo system, EBC Brakes.
http://community.webshots.com/user/mudcrazee
http://www.southernswampboyz.com
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How To Tighten The Belt....? - 
umm umm umm cant believe i didnt knock some of that knowledge out of you when i hit you in the head with that box
haha lol jk girl. but again sorry for that! you have no idea how bad i felt! WOW!!!!!!!! haha glad that oquered 5 minutes over...haha
Good thing you don't live closer, I might have to get more insurance LOL, LMFAO.
lol!!!!!
i REALLY think you know watcha talkin about!! haha. i can do this stuff but couldnt put it in words and explain it like you for my life!!!
