Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know
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Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know

 
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Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know - 10/17/2006 7:57:51 AM   
4wheelfurry


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I have had quite a few questions concerning clutching for drag racing lately, it seems as though drag racing is getting popular with this forum so I want to try to provide some insight to the theory in tuning for drags.

First thing you want to do is get the Dalton override clutch cover (or machine your stock) for the primary. This will lighten up the primary and give you 1-2mph on top end. Only drawback is it takes the KEBC out of operation but it is most useful for drag racing. If you are or know someone who is a machinist then you need to do the "primary clutch mod" this is outlined on kissofdeath website (he is on HL forums) This will also give you another 1-2mph on top. There are also professionals who do this mod but it can get a little costly from them. I did mine myself.

The secondary spring: The theory is the stronger the secondary the tighter it holds the belt. This is great for mudding but not for drags, to much belt tension drag ultimately takes away hp and really effects top end. In the Prairie 650/700's the stock spring is a great drag spring, the Brutes were upgraded with a heaver spring and really can stand to go back down, this will lessen belt drag and increase pickup. . In drag racing you don't need to hold the belt extremely tight because it is only under rider/bike weight strain. Also the belt is being pulled in by the primary so hard at WOT it usually will not slip.

Primary spring and weights really go hand in hand, they work as: the spring pushes against the weights. As the clutch spins up the weights fly outward and force the spring to collapse inwards "shifting" the belt upwards the pulley. So a heaver spring will cause a slower shift (more RPM to shiftout) and lighter spring will cause a faster shift (less RPM to shiftout). NOW heaver weight will cause a faster shift (less RPM) and lighter weight causes a slower shift (more RPM).

A primary spring has 2 numbers, ie: 1/170... The first number is stall meaning this is where the engine RPM will be when it begins moving, the second number is shiftout meaning this is where the RPM will be when the clutch maxes out or "shifts out". After shift out it will still increase RPM until the engine hits the rev-limiter or quits revving, this is where people get confused - the clutch shifts out quite quickly compared to the engines overall abilities. The primary can shift out anywhere from 200ft to 500ft depending on primary spring and weights. To high stall and you break traction and waste low end torque, to high shiftout and you over-rev the engine wasting its potential peak power.

The idea is to get the upshift in the ideal RPM range where your engine makes its most HP. The Kawie clutch setup has 4 weights, they can be mismatched ie: 2 lighter opposite of each other and 2 heaver opposite of each other, or they can all match in weight. Most people just fool with the primary spring and then if needed fine tune with weights. I will say there is no one spring for all situations, long drag courses and short drags, asphalt and dirt, wet and dry... I have 2 springs I like to run depending on if I am on dirt or asphalt.


All engines are different in how they make power and each time you add a mod you change the peak output and where it is in the RPM range so you will have to experiment with a few springs and check your findings (race someone else each time or time your runs). For example I once had a spring that was unreal acceleration but I switched tires (droped dia by 1.5") and lost 5 bike lengths because it overrevved badly. Basically the ultimate goal is to hold the "upshift" at peak HP making RPM for the duration of shift until it is shifted out, this is all done with the primary spring/weight combo AND hold the belt with the secondary as light as possible without slipping it. Hope this helps some of you guys...


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RE: Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know - 10/17/2006 11:53:58 AM   
MONSTERQUADMANIAC

 

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Good info. Thanks

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RE: Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know - 10/17/2006 12:01:49 PM   
mudcrazee


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About time you started sharing some of that knowledge.

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RE: Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know - 10/17/2006 12:22:25 PM   
CamoKVF700


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From: Alberta, Canada
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Can you explain what the 1/170 means as far as what RPM? 1 means how many RPM? 170 means how many RPM? The Dalton O/B is 25/167. What does that equate to in RPM? 2500 stall and what is a shift out of 167?

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RE: Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know - 10/17/2006 4:37:49 PM   
WrecklessKelly


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From: Small town Saskatchewan
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My understanding of the spring #'s is that they are for how many ft/lbs of pressure it takes.  25ft/lbs to begin compressing it and 167 to fully compress it.  Thats what i think it is anyway. 

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RE: Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know - 10/18/2006 6:45:15 AM   
4wheelfurry


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Joined: 10/31/2003
From: Deep South Louisiana
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The #'s stand for ft/lbs measured at a specific length meaning 1 = 1lb @1.25" compressed height and 170 = 170lbs @2.50" compressed height both starting from free standing height.

In terms of how much it raises RMP, we all know that a 0/155 spring has no stall and so we could assume a 1/170 would raise RPM about 300. This is NOT always true, the entire clutch system is matched and has to work together so by adding weight to the fly-weights you would lower engagement. Meaning you could take a spring as high as say 20/180 and by adding weight to the fly-weights lower the stall back down to nearly 0. You also lower the shiftout RPM as well. In the same respect you can take a spring with 1/170 and lighten up the fly-weights until it has a 1500 RPM stall...

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RE: Clutch setup drag racing, what ya need to know - 1/19/2007 7:17:50 PM   
mudcrazee


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CDI INFO:  http://www.highlifter.com/forum/CDI_differences%2c_information%25%25%25/m_1735761/tm.htm

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2005 Camo BF 750, SSATV 2" lift, JE Pistons, HL Rack Radiator, 29.5's on ITP 5's, BS, 2" Exhaust Snorkel, Dyna CDI, HL Module, HL Extreme Clutch, HL Diamond Bumper and Bash. BFWDP
2007 EE Rhino660 28" Outlaws on Castlerocks, Stereo system, EBC Brakes.
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