DavAsh
Posts: 384
Joined: 12/13/2005
From: Va
Status: offline
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Revised version, there was some confusion about a couple of steps and I think DemiJohn finnaly got me straight on the correct way to to word the details.
Hello!
I have spoken with DemiJohn about this post and have gotten his go ahead to use his original caster modification details in this post. I hope that I do not over look any of the steps. If I did, I am sure you will catch me on it. ![""]("/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumb.gif") Thanks once again DemiJohn.
1) Gather the tools and material that you will need for the job. Including but not limited to: 3/16 inch x 1 inch flat steel stock, grease, small selection of metric socket and wrenches (8mm -17mm) something to cut steel (hack saw will do fine), a couple of medium to large metal files, a good square, drill, drill bits, a bench vise (very useful), a couple of large wire ties (or something to secure the front brake leaver), brake fluid (dot 4), vernier calipers (accuracy is very important), torque wrench, something to remove the ball joints (I will post a photo of the tool I used), long flat end punch, hammer, needle noise pliers, some blue locktite, Phillips screw driver, and most important of all a copy of the service manual (you will need to torque the bolts back to factory spec).
2).Jack the front of the King off the ground.
3) Remove the front wheels / tires from the bike.
4) Squeeze the front brake handle about half way and secure it with a large wire tie (to keep all the brake fluid from draining out of the system when the banjo bolts and removed).
5). Have a small container ready to catch some brake fluid that will spill out from this step (a small cup will do). Remove the bolts holding the brake line in place and free the brake line from the holder on the under side of the A-arm. Slide the brake line up through the A-arm and out of the way.
6) Remove the safety pin from the nut that holds the nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Then remove the nut, lock washer and washer from the ball joint.
7) Use the tool to pop the ball joint loose. If any grease squeezed from the rubber boot then you will need to use a needle attachment on a grease gun, to replace the grease in the ball joint boot. Be careful not to damage the boot and to keep you fingers safe during this step. When the ball joint releases, it might pop loose at the last second.
8) Loosen and remove the bottom shock bolt, while holding the A-arm so it will not fall.
9) Loosen and remove the long A-arm bolt on the upper A-arm, at the rear of the A-arm.
10) Now, remove the A-arm to a table or bench so you can work on it a little easier.
11) Remove the rubber end caps / bushings. Be careful that you do not drop the washers out of the caps.
12) Slide the shinny center rod out of the A-arm. Keep it clean and nearby. You will be cutting down this item.
13) Using the vernier calipers measure the thickness of the flat stock that you will be cutting to make the shims for the front of the A-arm.
14) Using the long punch and hammer, I removed the plastic bushing from the back / rear of the A-arm tube. Moving the punch around and not trying to kill it, will prevent you from destroying the bushing.
15) Transfer the measurement of the flat stock to the rear portion of the round section of the A-arm. Refer to photos but it will be the short section of the tube. Make sure to scribe the line all the way around the tube. I used the tips of my calipers to scribe the line on the tub of the A-arm. Measure three or four times and cut once, is a good rule to follow here as well.
16) This is where a bench vise will come in handy. Using your tool of choice cut the shaft short of the line. Be patient this will take some time to cut all the way through and be accurate. I used some masking tape to make the line easier to see. I did not use it as a cutting guide. You will need to file the material down to the line. I used a small woodworking square to make sure I was staying square with my filing. The end of the tube must be kept square. Be sure to clean all the metal dust from inside the shaft. I used my air compressor for this and a long strip of rag on a drill.
17) Now, it is time to put the plastic bushing back into the A-arm shaft. Apply a little grease to the bushing. I used a woodworking clamp to press the bushing back into place.
You could be very careful and use a rubber hammer to tap the bushing into place. While being careful not to damage the bushing. Now you can measure for the inner shaft size. It should be .oo5 inches longer than the A-arm shaft with the two bushings installed.
18) You need to remove the same amount from inner shaft as you did from the A-arm shaft. It was already .005 longer them the A-arm shaft from the factory settings. Next, you need to mark the long shiny inner shaft the same amount and mark it all the way around. I used the tips of my calipers to do this, but if you have a better way to mark it, then use it. The result should be, the inner shaft being .005 inch longer than the A-arm shaft. Being sure to mark the line all the way around the shaft. Again, here is where a bench vise will be handy. Using the cutting tool of choice, cut the tube short of the line. Again, I used a piece of tape to give me a reference line not a cut to line. Once you have removed the majority of the material, you will need the files once again. File the shaft to the line, stopping often to make sure that the cutting is accurate with a small woodworking square. This shaft must be .005 longer that the shaft on the A-arm so that once it is all put back together it wont bind. "The result should be, the inner shaft being .005 inch longer than the A-arm shaft after the bushings are installed." It is very important that all the cuts made be square and accurate. Clean all the metal dust from the shaft.
18b) An added note here. Make sure to ease the edges on all the cuts that you make. Therefore, the sharp edges will not damage the plastic bushings. You can use a fine metal file for this, a flat file for the outside edges and a small round file for the inside edger. I used a de-burring tool for this and it works great. Fine grit sand paper could be another option if you are careful.
19) Now you can slide the shiny shaft back into the A-arm shaft (apply grease to the length of the shaft and the inside of the bushings).
20) Replace the rubber end caps. Make sure that the washers are still in the caps.
21) Now, set the A-arm assembly aside in a clean, safe place.
22) It is now a good time to measure for the spacer that you need to cut from the 3/16 flat stock. You will need to cut this a little over sized to begin with. I used my vernier calipers to measure the size of the area where the front bushing was located when the A-arm was on the bike. I then used an air grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the shims a little over sized to start with. Using the bike as a reference, I continued shaping the shims until the fit correctly. I rounded the backside of the long edges of the shim to match the contour of the area of the A-arm mounting bracket, where the shim will have its new home. Then I marked the centerline of the each shim (you will need to make two shims, one for both A-arms), placed the shim in the mounting bracket, and marked the hole. This is just for reference to the location of the hole that you need to drill in the center of the shim. Then using a drill, (I used a drill press) and staying on the centerline, I drill the hole for the bolt. I cleaned up the shim and applied a coat of glossy black for metal. Let it dry while you continue on the other side or while you take a break for a soda and sandwich, (I let mine dry over night).
23) If you lost any grease from the ball joint boot, you will need to replace it before you re-install the a-arm. I had to get a grease gun needle for my grease gun and slide it between the boot and the shaft of the ball joint. Then I squeezed the air out and cleaned up the excess grease.
24) Continue on the other side of the bike, with the same process as before. Just make sure of which end you are going to be cutting of the A-arm.
24) Putting it back together! Once the paint has dried on the shims.
25) Take the A-arm assembly to the bike with one of the shims. Slid the A-arm into place and put the shim into place (you may have to flip the shim over to line up the bolt holes, I did). Slide the long bolt in from the rear and replace the nut. Torque to spec. using the service manual guidelines.
26) Put the shaft of the ball joint into the hole and replace the washer, lock washer, nut, and the carter pin. Torque to spec. Refine to the service manual for all torque specs on the bike.
27) Replace the lower shock bolt and nut. Torque to spec.
28) Run the brake line back through the A-arm and fasten it to the clip under the A-arm. Replace the bolt in the side of the A-arm. Snug up the bolt (this is the only bolt that I used any blue Locktite on, the rest of the nuts were self locking)
29) Replace the banjo fitting to the brake caliper with one washer on top of the fitting and one between the head on the bolt and the fitting. Torque to spec.
30) Now, you will need to referrer to the service manual on bleeding the brakes. Very important to get the air out of the lines.
31) Once you have both sides complete. Replace the wheels, and torque to spec.
32) The best step of all, go ride you new King Quad.
33) Thanks Demijohn for the information on how to do this mod.
Good luck and I hope this helps!
Tons of photos in my photo link under Caster mod.
David
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Caster adjustment Mod! Thanks DemiJohn - 
This all seems great and I have noticed the steering lock on my wifes Eiger. Will this mod be the same on it as it is on y'alls wheeler?
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