LiveForMud
Posts: 704
Joined: 1/7/2007
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bringing this over from arctic chat....
original thread: http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91701
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just found out a few weeks ago that a guy one of my buds at work knows has an 07 400m. he lives about an hour and a half from here though, so this won't be an overnight thing. i've been talking with the guy for a couple of weeks and he decided to give this a try... so he ordered the part and sent it my way through my buddy at work last monday.
i've been poking and prodding at this part for a few days now trying to plan out how to modify it. but first i got some dimensions: the cam is 1 1/16" wide, the channel is 1/4" wide, the center of the channel is 5/16" from the outside of the cam (which mean the outter and inner walls of the channel are 3/16" and 7/16", respectively, from the outside of the shift cam), the total width of the channel with the little countersink (chamfered?) edges included is 5/16", and the channel depth is about 5/16' deep.... but don't worry about the channel depth so much, as long as you're not shallower than the stock channel in any dimension, and as long as you don't drill all the way through the part into the inside teeth, you should be fine since it's pretty thick and there's some room to play with. we'll probably end up modifying the end of the "knob" on the shift fork that rides in the shift cam channel just to make sure it'll ride smoothly in the newly cut channel. just a slight bit of grinding if needed to match the rounded profile left by the bit.
as said in the other thread, the metal is HARD, so a high speed steel (HSS) bit or a cobalt bit will be needed to drill this thing. i'm starting with a craftsman 1/4" cobalt bit since it's the toughest (but not the strongest, cobalt is brittle so be careful!). once we get the channel roughed out, then we'll go at it with a dremel and about a million stone wheels (might need diamond) to finish shaping up the channel and getting everything smooth. then it's time to cut some small pieces of scrap steel to mount in the edges of the old channel where it meets the new channel (in the transition area) and weld them in place so the shift fork stays in the newly cut channel. we'll be using a mig welder for this so we're hoping it turns out good. once the welding and surface finishing is done, we'll take her out for some testing. we'll probably use it for a few weeks or months and periodically take it out and inspect it to make sure everything is still wearing ok.
i don't have a camera so i went and borrowed my neighbor's camera phone for some pics... sorry about the quality. but if you look close enough you can see where i traced out the pattern for the new channel. it simply mirrors the old channel about the centerline (the scrap steel i mentioned above will be welded in the existing channel to section off the new channel from it).
 Reduced 75%  1280 x 960 (236.27K) //
Reduced 75%  1280 x 960 (228.02K) //
Reduced 75%  1280 x 960 (224.52K) //
the guy that owns the 400m is driving by my place on saturday to drop off his camera so i can take pics. he's meeting up with some family for the weekend so he won't be staying to help... and i had some things come up this week that might fill up my whole weekend so i might not get started drilling until later.
anyway this is getting a bit longer than i thought... but bottom line, i'm shooting to have the cam done and installed in the bike within a month or two. then we'll just put a few hundred miles on it over the course of a couple of months to make sure it's gonna be problem free. i don't plan on making a business out of this, so i'm detailing everything so anyone can follow it. depending on how it goes i might make a few for some people who can't do the work themselves or don't have access to anyone who can... don't know yet so let's leave that until this thing is proven to work.
i should have some better pics this weekend stay tuned...
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here's the full size pics:
if you can see the markings on the cam, then you'll see what i was talking about in the old threads... just mirror the stock channel about the centerline of the cam. you're basically fooling the subtrans into selecting high when you put the shifter into "L", low when you put it in "H", and when you shift into reverse it'll have the low range gears engaged so you'll have one heck of a reverse gear instead of wimpy high-range-reverse you get stock.
as said before, better pics should be up this weekend and we'll get plenty of pics along the way. and some videos later on too comparing the stock reverse with the "fixed" reverse.... errrhummm... the "LFM reverse mod" 
L8A
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Printable Version
400m reverse fix has begun... - 
installed today, took exactly 3 hrs. 
When coming apart watch for the spacers on the gears the alignment pins and gear shafts come out with the housing and you NEED the manual to make sure it goes back correct. 
ordering that part today. 
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